The Basic Bodice Pattern in Stages Part 2 – Tailoring

For the Tailoring we need to have the following measurements:

1/2 and 1/4 Waist
1/2 Hips
1/3 Back Width

So lets get started:

STAGE 1:

From the front Armhole Line on the Back Length Line measure 1/4 Waist minus 1 towards the center front.
Measure the distance left over from that point to the center front
Transfer that amount 1/2 to the left and 1/2 to the right of the Chest Line
Draw two lines connecting those two points with the Chest Depth Point
From the front Armhole Line on the Hip Length Line measure 1/4 Waist plus 1 toward the center front.
Measure the distance left over from that point to the center front
Transfer that amount 1/2 to the left and 1/2 to the right of the Chest Line
Draw two lines connecting those two points with the dart points on the Back Length Line

From point 1 Stage 1 measure 1/2 Waist plus 2-3 cm* towards the center Back (make sure the gap between front and back is not included in the measurement or add the amount of the gap to the total)
Measure the left over distance between that point and the center back
From that measurement take a maximum of 3cm for the Side Seam and the rest for the Back Dart
On the Side Seams of the Front and Back measure up 1cm from the Back Length Line
From there measure in half of the Side Seam allowance on the front and the other half on the back (See picture: in this example it was 3cm and 1.5 for each Side Seam)
From the center back measure 1/3 Back Width plus 1
From there measure the whole Back Dart allowance and half that
From the half point draw a line at a right angle measure up and down 14-16am (14 used in example)
Draw lines connecting all points as shown in picture to create Dart
From point 5 Stage 1 Measure 1/2 Hip + 2-3 (2cm used in example) towards the Center back (mind the gap between front and back see Point 1 of Stage 2)
Measure the distance it goes past the Center back
Take the amount and add half to each side seam on the Hip Length Line (5cm in this example – 2.5 cm for each side)

All that’s left to do is connecting the new taken in Waist with the tapered out Hips using a curved ruler and you have your tailored bodice.

As always if anything is unclear leave questions in a comment below.